The nails have been all wired up and connected together on a copper rail within the box. Conductive stones (42 + 42) made from metal nail covers are finished. The box and the board with conductive nailhead-intersections are finished. Using a glue gun to fill both halves and then pressing them together firmly (wearing mittens prevents burned fingers) proved to be a fast and efficient method that ended up being used. Soldering seemed ineffective, lead did not stuck to the surface properly. If made properly, the bottoms connecting sufficiently, the stone should be conductive all over its surface. Two of them will be stuck together with their bottoms to produce a stone-shape. Instead, nail covers made from copper and aluminium alloy will be used. Stones: Original plan was to coat ordinary plastic or glass go stones with a conductive layer using conductive paint, this has turned out to be ineffective after some reseach into the availability and properties of conductive paint. However, Krakonos kindly rewired it to Arduino-less awe-provoking 555-based breadboard circuit on JDI2011: The controller used to be an Arduino with sketch: It allows fine-tuning the voltage on the second transistor base, therefore the amount of current the transistor allows to flow through the high-voltage source (i.e. There are two extra resistors in the circuit, forming a voltage divider along the pathway between the two transistors. Therefore, it just controls a second transistor which actually switches the - lead of the high-voltage source (when it gets a low-voltage signal from the photo-transistor, it connects - to the ground). Unfortunately, just using the photo-transistor was not possible since it reduces the voltage too much for the high-voltage generator to work. (Later, we took the gadget further apart the evil black thing is just a coil, while the tiny white thing on top of it is likely a step-up DC-DC converter. (Of course, the led and the photo-transistor are encased in a four-pin chip the part costs 20 cents.) So when the high-voltage should be enabled, the logic control just turns on the led. At the logic control side, there is just a led, while at the high-voltage side there is a photo-transistor that conducts electricity only when the led is lighted. A very easy way to achieve that is to use a so-called opto-isolator. This means, there is no actual electrical connection between the two. We were not sure what the evil black thing actually is, so we decided to design the circuit as having the logic control circuit galvanically separated from the high-voltage control circuit. The - lead will be connected to a simple circuit that will enable us to control when is the high voltage enabled. The + lead should be connected to + of a ~4V battery (you can use the battery stack from your gadget). The high-voltage lead should be connected to the wires. We use a ripped apart shock-your-friend DealExtreme gadget (we tested sku 85) - after some chopping and hacking, you should end up with three leads coming off: +, - and high voltage. The wires shall be connected to electrically switchable high-voltage source. Line all the wires to one of the sides and then make them go to the bottom of the box, where you join them together using a conductive copper tape, for example. Get your 81 wires, roughen up the surface with sandpaper, remove the insulation from the ends, and wrap one end of each around a nail. This should produce a nice box with the board on top and room for the electronics inside. Nail down the 81 intersections so that the heads are on the go board (will touch the stones) and the tips are sticking out of the bottom. Glue the four ledges to one of the plates attach the 9×9 board to the other plate.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |